Art of making shoes.



A. H. PRENZEL.

ART OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 16. I912.

1 ,1 59,083. Patentd Nov. 2, 1915.

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ART OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 16, 19I2.

1 $59,083. Patented Nov. 2, 1915.

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COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH co., WASHINGTON, D. c.

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w e seems mm wes ADAM H'. rnENz EL. or HALIFAX. PENNsrLvANIA, ASSIGNQR 'ro' NITED sHon MACHINERY COMPANY, or PATERSON, NEW messy, A conroRATIo oF NEW JERSEY.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it-known that I, .ADAM H..1 R nNznL, citizen of the United States, residing at Halifax, in the county of Dauphm and State This invention relates to an improvement in the art of making shoes, and more particularly in making shoes of that type in which the upper is provided with an outwardly turned portion which'is adapted to be secured to the outer sole, and an object of thepresent invention is the provision of a simple and efficient method for making shoes of this character whereby theshoes will compare favorably in appearance with.

shoes of the well known welt or turned types and which can be practised much more economically and easily than the methods noW employed. for making shoes of these types. i 1

The novel shoe herein disclosed is not claimed hereinbut is claimed in my copending application Serial No. 731,892, filed of even date herewith, while similarly the.

novel shoe 'sole produced in the practice of the process of the present invention is not claimed herein but is claimed in my copending application Serial No. 7 31,893, also filed of even date herewith.

In the drawings, wherein is illustrated a convenient embodiment of a shoe made according to the present method, and wherein like characters of reference refer to similar parts in the several views, Figure 1 is a top plan View of an unfinished shoe, embodying the present invention; Fig. 2 is an elevation of the completed shoe; Fig. 3 is a bottom plan of one end part of the shoe showing a portion of the insole, Fig. l is a bottom plan of the insole; Fig. 5 is a plan of the outsole; ig. 6 is a cross section of the 'outsole; F g. .7 1s a cross, section of the insole, and Fig. 8 is an enlarged sectionalview showing the various parts in their connected association when the shoe is cornpleted. I r r Referring now, more particularly tothe drawings, the shoe as made'according to the present method comprises an 'upper A, an

outer sole B, and an inner'sole r in carrying out the present method, a,

Application filed November 1 6, 1912. Serial No. 731,894;

ART] OF MAKING'SHOES.

Specificationof Letters Patent. Pate t d No 2,1915,

strip ofmaterial-isremovedfrom the upper surface of the outer sole B so as to provide. a channel Z) around the edge of the front portion thereof, the ends of which terminate adjacent theheel portionof the sole. In forming the channel bin the outer sole, the material is so out that said channel will be provided with an abrupt or substantially vertical. innershoulder b, and the bottom surface thereof will be inclined downwardly from the inner edge to the outer edge of the channel. Cutting the outer sole in this manner also provides "a stripwhich is removed fromthe outer sole with'a transversely inclined under surface, said strip being fixed at itsouterportion. The strip which is removed from the soleB to form the channel I) therein is severed from the sole at one end only so that there is provided, a welt strip F which is integral with the sole and is connected thereto at one end only. Simul-- taneously with the removal of the strip ;F

from the outer sole-B, a] portion of the outer edge of said strip is cut away, sothat the-welt strip will be of slightly less width thanithechannel Z) in theouter 'sole, for a purpose to be hereinafteromore particularly set forth. 'Withthe outer sole prepared in this jmanner, an inner sole G is positioned thereover, which is of such a size'thatwhen superposed on the outer sole, the outer portion thereof will project outwardly beyond the shoulder b of the'channel or recess in the outer edge of the outer sole and will" overlie-the base orbottom of such channel or recess. The sides of the inner sole C have secured thereto in any suitable manner, flaps or Welts c c of fabric or other strong flexible material, such flaps or welts extendin'g conveniently from the shank on the 'inner sole topoints adjacent to the front thereof. i v I Theupper A of the shoe, which may be of any :suitable form, is provided with short inwardlyextending cuts a a 'in its lower edge on each side thereof, which are adapt: ed, when the upper is'positioned over the outer sole, to overlie the end portions of the. channel or recess 32 therein. 7 Tosec'ure the upper in positionfthe lower edge thereof, forward of the cuts a a' therein, is turned outwardly as at a, and the upperis posie tioned on the outer sole so tliat'the out-'- wardly turned portion a thereof will be positioned Within the channelb inthe outer,

sole and willalso overlie the flaps orwelts 0 c of the inner sole. l/Vith the parts in this position, the outwardly turned portion a of the upper and the portions of the flaps or welts c o of the inner sole positioned therebeneath, are tucked inwardly'i'nto the" upper will rest directly upon the bottom of said channel or recess. The tucked-in part of the upper is then secur d directly to the outer sole by means of a row oflasting staples or other fastening means E which pass through the lower edge of the upper and into the vertical shoulder b of the channel or recess which is formed in the outer edge of the" outer sole. Thisshou'lder provides 'a' solid backing against which the lower edge of the upper maybe secured by the "lasting staplesE, which staples are allowed to remain in position and become a permanent part of the sole attaching'means. The lasting staples E'w'hich are utilized to connect the upper to the outer sole also pass 7 through the strips of fabric or welts c '0 which are' secured to the sides of the inner sole so that said staples or other fastening means'serve' to connect the inner sole to the outer sole in a strong durable manner so as to practically preclude itsseparationthere The lower edge of that portion of the upper in rear of the cuts a a is turned in wandly and secured by nails or other suitable fastening nieansto the underside of the inner' sole C. The outwardly turned portion a of the upper which overlies the bottom-of the channel or recess 6 in the outer sole B is next trimmed-so that the edge thereof will b e'positioned'inwardly of the edge of the outer sole, and a portion of the bottom of the channel or recess 7) of the outer sole will be exposed. The Welt strip F formed by the material cut out from the outer'sole Bis then progressively laid upon the outwardly turned portion a of the upper in thechannel 7) of the inner sole, beginningat the attached end, the inner edge of said welt strip being forced inwardly between the portion of the upper which is tucked in between theinner and outer soles so as to directly overlie the lasting staples E'which pass through the upper intothe shoulder of of the channelor recess 6 in the innersole and thus serve to" preventithe withdrawal of said Tstaples. Zith; the welt strip Fain this position, it .is secured to the outer edge of the outer sole .by ia"rowiof stitching for :other fastening 'means which passes through the welt strip, the outer sole, and the interposed portion of the upper, as well as those portions of the flaps or welts o 0 of the inner sole which overlie the base ofthe channel or recess Z) in theouter sole.

Thewel't'strip F is of sucha width that when secured in position, in the manner just described, the outer edge thereof will lie flush with the outer edge of the sole. This result is obtained by reason of the narrowing of the welt strip when the same is formed, the amount of material which is removed from the outer edge thereof being just suilicient to provide for the thickness of the upper which overlies the shoulder F) at the inner edge of the channel or recess Z) of the outer sole 13.; When the "welt strip is secured in position, it is drawn tightly into engagement with the exposed portion of the bottom of the channel or recess Z) in the outer sole B, so that the joint between the welt strip and the outersole will be practically invisible and the edge of the upper will not be exposed.

' As has been before stated, the welt strip F is cut from the outer sole B in such a manner as to pr ovide a beveled under surfacefor thewelt strip. As this construction provides the welt strip with an inner edge which is thinner than the. outer edge thereof, it facilitatesthe forcing of the welt strip inwardly between the inner and outer soles. This'construction also prevents the forma tion of a sole of a bulky appearance when the welt strip is secured thereto with the outer edge thereof flush with the outer edge ofs'aid sole, since the portion of the welt strip which is removed to provide space for the accommodation of the out-turned portion of the upper, is the thickest portion of the said strip,

In completing the shoe, the heel portion of the outer sole is fastened to the inner sole :in any well known manner, andif desi r ed ,;any well known form of heelmay be secured to. the outer sole. In the drawings, a spring heel shoe is illustrated, and when the invention is utilizedpin connection with a shoe of this type, the heel portion of the outer, solefis preferably stamped outwardly to form the heelof the shoe, anda filler of any, suitable. kind is interposed between said stamped-outp'ortion and the heel part of the inner sole, the parts being fastened together in any, well known manner.

WVith a shoe formed by the method above described, it will be seen that as'the inner sole projects outwardly beyond the inner shoulder of the channel or recess in the outer sole, and that as such inner soleissesecured to the ffouter solo by the fastening means which are utilizedtosecurethe up-' per to theoutersole, the upper cannot be drawn inwardlytoexpose the joint at the inneredge of the welt, and the finished shoe does not materially differ in appearance from the ordinary welt and turned shoes as at present manufactured.- At the same time the simplicity of the'present method and the small number of operations entailedin practising the same renders it possible to manufacture shoes much more economically than can be done by the process at present employed for manufacturing Welt and turned shoes.

I claim l. The improvement in the art of making shoes comprising cutting the upper surface of a sole to form along the outer edge thereof a channel having an inner shoulder, severing the material cut out from the outer sole at one end only to provide awelt strip integral with the outer sole, positioning an,

upper having an outwardly turned lower edge in the channel of the outer sole, and,

progressively laying and securing the welt strip in said channel over the outwardly turned portion of the upper.

2. The improvement in the art of making shoes comprising cutting the upper surface of an outer sole to form along the outer edge thereof a channel having an inner shoulder,

severing the material cut out from said outer sole at one end of the channel thus formed to provide a welt strip integral with the outer sole, cutting away a portion of said welt strip to reduce the width thereof, positioning an upper with an outwardly turned lower edge in the channel of the outer sole,

and securing the welt strip in the channel of V the outer sole over the outwardly turned portion of the upper. e

3. The improvement in the art of making shoes comprising cutting the upper surface of an outer sole to provide a channel having an inner shoulder and a bottom portion inclined downwardly from the inner to the outer edge, thereof, severing the strip thus cut from the outer sole at one end of the channel only to provide a welt strip inte gral with the outer sole, cutting away a part from the outer edge of said welt strip to reduce the .widththereof, positioning an upper having an outwardly turned lower edge upon the outer sole, and securing the welt strip in the channel of the-outer sole over the outwardly turned portion of the upper. 1

4. The improvement in the art of making shoes comprising cutting an outer sole to provide a channel around the outer edge thereof having an inner shoulder,- severing the material cut from the outer sole at one end of said channel only to provide a welt stripv integral with the outer sole, positioning upon the outer sole an inner sole, the

Y outer edge of which projects outwardly beyond the shoulder of the channel in the outer sole, positioning an upper having an outwardly turned lower edge in the channel of the outer sole, tucking a portion of the upper betweenthe outer edges of the inner and outer soles, securing the tucked-in portion of the upper to'the shoulder of the channel in the outer sole, positioning the welt strip over the outwardly turned portion of the upper in the channel in the outer sole,

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. 0. I V 

